NEW YORK STORIES – Food
April Broomfield is a name very familiar to New Yorkers who wish to dine on good honest cooking made from the heart and from a true love of great food. A native of Birmingham, England and having worked at The River Cafe in London, she is the executive chef and co-owner (with Ken Friedman) of The Spotted Pig in Greenwich Village, The Breslin and The John Dory Oyster Bar – both at the Ace Hotel in Midtown. I was lucky enough to dine at 2 of her establishments. I also purchased her new cookbook which is a good read and well worth buying.
THE SPOTTED PIG
Located at 314 W. 11th Street @ Greenwich St in Greenwich Village this beautifully decorated gem of a restaurant serves up seasonal British & Italian cuisine using local ingredients whenever possible. It is quite difficult to get into so I chose to get there for a lunchtime treat, there was a line starting up at 11.45 for a 12 noon opening. Whilst sitting on my own I soon engaged in conversation with a lovely couple from Florida at the table next to me, they were there for the same reason – to sample some delicious food from this reputable eatery. The exterior is adorned with herbs and plants which seems to be a signature of April’s establishments whilst the interior is full of paraphernalia related to the pig and various produce that is edging on kitsch but part of the charm of the relaxed space.
I ordered myself a Frozen Moscow Mule cocktail which was a refreshing vodka ginger beer and lime concoction perfect for a warm day. As an appetiser I chose a Devilled Egg a favourite of mine and to have it in a fine establishment was fun. Sitting in a puddle of extra virgin olive oil and scattered with snipped chives, it was delicious and creamy and simple, I scoffed them down as if I was attending a 70’s cocktail party.
Next up was the famed Chargrilled Burger with Roquefort Cheese served with an alarmingly large nest of shoestring fries. A fine meat patty cooked rare with a strong cheese to compliment sitting on a light brioche bun alongside a mess of fries flavoured with garlic and rosemary, it was absolutely fantastic and worthy of its reputation. I know my choices were not very adventurous but I wanted to sample and now I know I will return for more. If she can get devilled eggs and hamburger right I know I will enjoy anything served up. After deciding not to order dessert because I was full to pussy’s bow my dear Floridian neighbours offered me a spoonful of their treats and I must say the Flourless Chocolate Cake was a winner, rich and moist and divine, the Creme Brûlée (ordered as a litmus test) was delightful creamy perfection. So off I went into the day to explore the village determined to try out The Breslin next……
THE BRESLIN BAR & DINING ROOM
The Breslin, is situated as part of the Ace boutique hotel at 29th and Broadway. It features a hearty, meat-centric menu that emphasizes artisanal products, small local growers and farmers, and seasonality. It is known for “nose-to-tail” cuisine methodologies and offers handmade terrines, sausages and charcuterie. I entered through another forest of plants adorning the pavement noting the sign above with cute graphic symbols, into what felt like a beer tavern of which a bevy of brews featured on the menu.
I opted for another cocktail of course, known as an “High Violet” – featuring Vodka, agai liqueur, tarragon, lemon juice and soda – yum! yum!
To eat I chose another old time favourite a Scotch Egg, a delicious perfectly cooked soft boiled egg wrapped in juicy pink mince and cooked to a crunchy goodness, it was flavoursome and looked gorgeous when sliced open. Served at the same time was a tasty Seafood Sausage with Beurre Blanc and Chives, another classic, light as a feather and subtly fishy. I have come to realise that Miss Bloomfield creates food I truly love, using fresh tasty ingredients to spruce up old time fare – perfection.
So as you can tell now I am a big fan of April Bloomfield and her food philosophy. I can’t wait to go back to her restaurants and try more from the menu. At least now I have her cookbook as a reminder and as soon as I arrived home I cooked up a delicious lamb shoulder braise (see below) and look forward to cooking more tasty meals from her oeuvre.